Keep an eye on the weather during May because it can be changeable and after warm spells it can suddenly turn cold with even a touch of frost.
In the event of frosty weather much can be protected but it is not always easy to cover large crops such as potatoes. If your potato crop should get caught by a frost, try to wash it off the leaves before the sun shines on the foliage - this is when the damage is done. Don’t despair too much if you’re unfortunate enough to suffer damage - the crop should grow back but it will be about three weeks later.
If you started your Dahlias into growth indoors, there should be some reasonable sized growth on them by now. Use some of it for propagation; cuttings strike very easily and will make good flowering plants producing superior blooms later in the year.
The lawn should be fed now if it hasn’t already been done. The grass will be growing faster now and will be needing that extra cut from time to time. After a feed it will grow even faster for a while!
At the end of the month the first sowings of wallflowers can be made. Sow thinly about 1cm deep in drills in the garden and when the plants are large enough, transplant them in rows about 18cm (9”) apart with 24cm (12”) between the rows. They will make large plants by the autumn when they can be transplanted once more into their flowering position for next spring’s show. When transplanting the first time, some gardeners pinch the tip out to encourage a bushy plant, but they bush out anyway during their growing period.
Similar methods of growing are used for many perennial/herbaceous subjects which are raised from seed sown at this time of year - Lupins, Delphiniums, Hollyhocks, Aquilegia etc. Hard-coated seeds like Lupins benefit from overnight soaking before sowing to encourage stratification. Also next spring’s bedding plants (Myosotis, Bellis, Primroses etc) should be planned for now. These types, however, along with winter flowering Pansies could be sown in trays or pans rather than the open garden.
Sometimes difficulty can be encountered in the germination of Primroses and Polyanthus. The best way to achieve a good germination is to keep the seed in the freezer for a day or two before sowing and then after sowing water them with hot (not boiling) water and leave uncovered. Keep an eye on them and when they start to chit, usually 5-10 days, lightly cover them with vermiculite and keep them in full light.
May, of course, is the month when most of the planting is done of containers and hanging baskets. The material used for planting is a personal choice - there are dozens of subjects to choose from - and all are suitable for their purpose. Perhaps Petunias and Impatiens should be considered indispensable because of their very long flowering period. All containers and baskets will bring great rewards all summer long if they are well cared for. Water regularly and feed every couple of weeks. A high potash feed is best (Tomorite is ideal). Also dead head regularly - remember old flowers will form seed pods to the expense of more buds. If you’re planting from scratch, use the correct compost - “Container and Hanging Basket Compost” is obviously the correct one to use. All different composts and grow bags are specially formulated for their stated use. Always choose the right one for the intended job in hand.
Finally, don’t forget to apply a fertilizer dressing about every 4-6 weeks to the borders and vegetable patch. An excellent all-round fertilizer is Fish Blood and Bone - you can’t go wrong with it. However, some vegetable crops sometimes need more specific fertilizers for certain reasons. Please ask for advice if in doubt.
