This month is probably the best month for the rose to be blooming. After the flower has shed all its petals it is important to dead head. This helps a good second flush of new flowers in a few weeks time. Cut the old flowers off by making a sloping cut about 1cm above the first outward-facing five lobed leaf from the top (the top leaves are usually only three lobed). If the rose is a floribunda or cluster flowered type, just nip out the flowers as they fade. Another feed of rose fertilizer wouldn’t come amiss but no later than next month because young growth shouldn’t be encouraged later in the season. Keep an eye open for aphids and black spot and spray accordingly. Aphids breed much faster in the warm weather and several applications may be necessary to break the life cycle. The spray kills the adults but then eggs will still hatch later, so it’s back to square one. Also, don’t forget to spray the ground as well as walls/fences behind climbers because there will be livestock there as well as on the plants.
Tall growing perennial herbaceous subjects may need some support if it isn’t already in place. Especially subjects like Delphiniums, which are not particularly strong and can be damaged by one storm, and then a whole season’s growth is spoiled.
Most gardeners give their borders a feed and top dress in the spring but a further dressing now is very beneficial, particularly if applied after cutting down any early flowering subjects.
The vegetable plot should be yielding all the results of previous hard work which is very rewarding. Keep small sowings of the salad crops going for a good continuity - radish, for instance, can be sown every week but don’t forget to keep it well watered to prevent the roots going “pithy”.
If next spring’s wallflowers have not been sown yet, don’t delay, otherwise it will be too late. When the seedlings are large enough to transplant, perhaps the patch where the early potatoes have been dug from could be utilised. Don’t forget to give it a dressing of a good general fertilizer first. Remember, you can’t get more out of a garden than you put in.
After the flag iris (I. germanica) have finished flowering, they will benefit from a dressing of Epsom Salts. This will encourage better blooms for next year.
PRUNING - a very basic guide to Why? When? How? What?
Why? - To remove unwanted, damaged, diseased, weak or poor quality wood from a (usually hard-wooded) plant, shrub or tree. This includes ornamental, flowering and fruit trees, bushes etc. Also to maintain or regulate size, shape etc. and to encourage production of fruit where appropriate.
When? - This varies, depending on subject. The following is a basic rule of thumb guide, but if in doubt, ask.
Flowering Shrubs - If it flowers before end of May, prune back immediately after flowering. Cut out any weak or dead/diseased wood. Cut back all wood that has produced blooms. Always bear in mind the size/shape you will have next year. If the subject flowers after the end of May, the procedure is as before but should be done January – March. Don’t wait for it to come into growth.
Broad Leafed Evergreens - Basic shaping and again removal of any weak unwanted growth. Carry this out in May.
Conifers - Best time for this is late summer into early autumn.
Roses (in this area) - Mid March to April.
Clematis - February/March
Wisteria - Twice a year. July and again in December/January
Fruit - Autumn through to spring (depending on type/variety)
How? - Most pruning, although it can sometimes seem daunting, is really a matter of common sense. If real doubt persists it is perhaps better to err on the side of caution – once growth has been cut off, it can’t be put back. Study the shape and size of the tree or shrub and decide what you’re going to do before you start – afterwards can be too late! Always use clean and sharp tools be they secateurs or pruning saw. Don’t strain secateurs by trying to cut through anything more than about 15mm (approx. ½”) thick. Over this size use a saw and any wound to a branch or stem which is over 15mm (approx. ½”) treat with arbrex immediately.
Standard Pruning - Is the partial removal of the woody part of a plant. This can be light pruning when very little material is removed or hard pruning when substantial amounts of wood are removed. One stage further is stooling when virtually all the woody structure of the plant is removed. This can be carried out on such subjects as Eucalyptus, Dog wood and the butterfly bush (Buddleia). Even an old Rhododendron if cut down almost to ground level will grow again from the base. Also shearing or clipping a hedge or topiary is basically a form of pruning.
What?
Fruit Trees -
Cherry & Plum Trees - Need little or no pruning when the shape and size has been established.
Apple & Pear – spur pruning – this entails cutting back the leaders by half and reduce most laterals to 4-5 growth buds. However, some apple varieties are tip bearing. These include varieties ‘Discovery’, ‘Fortune’, ‘Worcester’, ‘Bramley’ and ‘Lord Lambourne’. These need regulation pruning because the fruit is born on the end of the branches which must not, of course, be removed. With regulation pruning just remove any weak, diseased wood or crossing branches and cut back a few of the leaders at the top of the tree. Always keep the middle of a fruit tree ‘open’ so that air circulates. It also makes for easier picking in the autumn.
Soft Fruit -
Raspberries – old wood which has fruited should be cut down to ground level immediately after fruit is picked. Tie in new growths for bearing next years crops. In February take top of growth off at about 2m (approx. 6½ft) high. Autumn-fruiting varieties – cut all canes down to ground level in February
Black Currants – Prune established bushes by cutting out about one third of the old fruiting wood after picking the crop. Leave other growth untouched. Don’t leave any branches to age more than four years.
Other Currants and Gooseberries – for the first four years allow the bushes to build a shape then cut new growth back by half each winter. Like top fruit, the centre of the bush must be kept open.
Wisteria – allow the leaders to grow as far as desired but prune the laterals by cutting back by half in July and then prune the same laterals hard (to near the main stem) in December/January.
Roses – always make a clean cut about 70mm (approx. ¼”) above an outward facing eye/bud. Remove any dead/weak growth. H.T. types should be pruned to about the second or third eye above ground level. Floribundas can be pruned a little less severely.
Ramblers – cut out old flowering wood to ground level when flowering has finished and tie in new growth.
Climbers – cut out any weak/diseased growth and tie in healthy growth. Some varieties produce laterals or side growth which may need cutting back a little.
Clematis - There are several types of clematis and they need different treatment. The following is a basic guide and if further advice is required it is essential that the type and variety is known. They are split into three main groups, as follows:
Group 1 – Spring flowering that flower on previous years growth. These include C.Alpina, C.Cirrhosa, C.Macropetala, C.Montana. Treat these as follows: First year, in February, cut back all stems to 30 - 40cm (approx 12”-15”) to encourage branching. Second years cut back all stems to about 90 - 100cm (approx. 36”-40”) after flowering. Subsequent years, just cut out any damaged or dead wood after flowering and then allow the plant to carry on.
Group 2 – This consists of the large flowered early varieties including the doubles and semi doubles. In years one and two, treat these the same as Group 1. In subsequent years cut all stems back to a strong plump pair of buds. Remove any weak or damaged growth. The growth buds are found on opposite sides of the stem in old leaf axils.
Group 3 – Treat as above in years one and two and thereafter cut down to 45 - 60cm (approx. 18”-24”) in February. This group consists of late flowering types such as the Jackmanii’s and the Viticella types.
Vines (Grapes) - During the first and second years, treat as follows: in spring and summer allow the leader to grow unrestricted in length but tie in to its support. Train the laterals alternately to the left and right and cut back laterals to leave only 5 leaves. Remove any flowers. In November/December shorten the new growth of the leader by half. (The new growth is recognisable by its paler colour). Cut back laterals to about 25mm (1”) from leader. Third and subsequent years, repeat the above routine except that when flowers appear (in spring) cut back laterals to 2 leaves beyond the flower truss. Cut back any sub-laterals to 1 leaf. Keep only 1 fruiting lateral per spur – rub out any others. For the first few years leave only 1 bunch per lateral. Older vines can bear 2 or 3 bunches. In November/December prune the leader by half. When the vine has reached the length you wish it to attain, curt the leader back 25mm (1”) beyond current years growth.
Hopefully the above may be of some assistance. If more help is required, please don’t hesitate to ask a member of the Plant sales team – we are always pleased to help. There are many subjects which may need regular pruning or just the occasional cutting back which haven’t been mentioned, so for any specific information you only have to enquire.
